Right now, I am at a shop called ‘MukkiKeZayke,’ located on the backside of Sapna-Sangeeta road. I came here looking for a samosa and expecting it to be something like we eat in North India. But here I came to know that samosa means patties, filled with cheese inside. I don’t want to have cheese Patties I saw a lot of customers having cold coffee here. First appeal of the cold coffee – look at these swirls of liquid chocolate inside the glass. Second thing, it is sprinkled with choco powder on top – which I am going to mix in. Let me have a sip and I will tell you more about its taste. As I shake the straw, the coffee looks to be very thick. Very nice! Let me have some more and I will tell you in detail about it. This is cold coffee with ice cream. The ice cream is not added on top, as is the usual practice, but it is mixed in while preparing the coffee. Second thing, if we add ice cream scoop on top, in that case, ice cream & coffee flavors remain separate. In that case, I feel, one can neither enjoy coffee properly nor the vanilla ice cream. Prior to today, I used to enjoy cold coffee like that but now I realized, this is the better combination. Moreover, it doesn’t have any crushed ice inside. Adding ice to the coffee means that the taste of coffee gets diluted towards the last sip. It is cold, definitely, but without crushed ice. Very thick! It is a very thick coffee, maybe because it has too much of vanilla ice cream mixed in. I won’t say this is the best cold coffee but I would definitely place it among top 5 cold coffees. Out of all the cold coffees that I’ve had so far, this one from MukkikeZayke would be in the top 5. I can see a lot of youth crowd here. In my opinion, the youth frequent a shop only if it offers a decent match of quality & price. I really want to have one more glass of cold coffee but I won’t because it would be too heavy. This is enough for today. It was a good experience to come here and enjoy this coffee. Boy: “I am a college student and I come here to eat at least 2-3 times a week. I love the smoothness,… …taste & flavor of this coffee. And yes, it also reduces our stress level.” Boy: “This is baked samosa. It is known as patties in North India. But in Madhya Pradesh, it is called… …baked samosa. We are college students and we come to eat this 1-2 times a week & it tastes yummy… …with cheese.” If you ask anyone in Indore about the ‘flying dahivada’ you will be shown the way to this place. Joshi DahiBada House, Sarafa bazar. I was continuously visiting this place for the past 2-3 days but could never get to meet Joshi ji. However, today, he is here, so I am going to go inside and eat dahivada as well as chat with him. Before coming to Indore, I had watched at least 10 videos of Joshi ji selling his vada. He has 3 unique skills, which I wanted to see for myself in person. All 3 skills are unique in itself. First skill is the way he flings the dahivada bowl in air, which is something not everyone can do. Second skill is the way he picks up 5 different spices at once and sprinkles those over the dahivada,… …again, impossible or very difficult for everyone to do. Joshi ji: “Let me show you once again.” Host: “He wants to show us once again.” Joshi ji: “Here goes salt, red chili powder, black pepper powder, cumin seeds powder &carom seeds powder.” Host: “He has sprinkled all five things together and these have spread separately.” The third skill is the chatting skill of Joshi ji, which enhances the flavor of this dahivada. Joshi ji: “You see I’ve added the sweet chutney to it but it will become really sweet when this ghulam… … (servant) will add his love to your dahivada.” (Host laughing) Host: “Look at the way he loves to serve his customers. I haven’t heard anyone else speaking like that.” Host: “Sir, how long have you been running this joint?” Joshi ji: “this shop was set up by my grandfather and I have been running it for quite long.” Host: “Please tell us something more about yourself.” Joshi ji: “What can a servant say about himself!” This is another unique style of Joshi ji that he loves to feed his customers with his hands sometimes. Joshi ji: “You are not my customer! You are my lord!” (Everyone laughs) So, if you come to Indore, don’t miss out on this flying dahivada. Let me eat it and then I will tell you about its taste. As you can see, my bowl is brimming with yogurt and spices, because Joshi ji added both multiple times. The yogurt is delicious. From what I’ve eaten so far, it has mild spices like cumin, carom seeds, etc. Nothing fancy or rich in taste! Joshi ji is insisting that I should get more yogurt added to my bowl. Joshi ji: “Taste this yogurt, you will feel happy!” Host: “Joshi ji has asked me to eat just the yogurt. It will taste delicious.” Hmmmm! It is totally different. It tasted different with spices in it. Very delicious yogurt! Joshi ji is also saying that if the person who is eating shows interest, then the food tastes even better. I’ve had just one bite of the vada so far! I’ve been told that this bhalla is made of moong dal (green gram). Usually bhalla is made with either split black gram or green gram and here it is made with green gram. Fresh, refreshing! Overall, the 3 skills of Joshi ji, along with this dahivada, is what attracts the customers to this joint. Actually, I came to check out the Sarafa Bazaar during the daytime, since I was already aware of how it… ….looks at night. It is a quite crowded street, full of jewellery shops. It is possible to reach here either on foot or on a two-wheeler, instead of in a four-wheeler. Moreover, when I saw Joshi ji at the shop, I couldn’t resist chatting up with him. I had heard a lot of the Hotel Raj Hans, especially their dish “dal-bafla.” When I came up here, I saw a lot of people gathered, assuming there was a function going on. It came to my knowledge that this gentleman, who is the proprietor of the hotel, Mr. Archin, is… … indeed getting married tomorrow. I am happy that I reached here for an auspicious occasion and Archin has offered some celebratory sweets. I am not sure whether I will be able to enjoy the dal-bafla here, since I am going to return to Delhi… …in 3 days’ time. However, he has generously ensured me that he will arrange a meal of dal-bafla for me. I am going to try my best to come here again and have a taste of dal-bafla and share my experience… ….with all of you. I’ve heard people say that you get the best dal-bafla in Indore here at Hotel Raj Hans. Host: “Best wishes for your marriage and congratulations!” Archin: “Thank you Sir!” Host: “Let us celebrate with some sweets.” Archin: “Sure sir! Here it is!” Host: “So, here is my sweet. What is it?” Archin: “Fruit Rabri.” Host: “Ok. Fruit Rabri! Very nice!” Very delicious! Right now, I am standing inside the Rajwada Palace, which is the pride of Indore. I have with me Mr. Prakash, Deputy Director, Archaeology, Rajwada. I’ve requested him to tell us about the history of this monument. Prakash: “You are at the Rajwada, which is located in the central part of Indore. This 7-storey building was constructed in 1747. The lower 3 stories are made out of stone and the rest of the stories are made of a mix of various construction materials like wood, limestone, stone, etc. This place receives 400-450 visitors everyday. This place has 2 main halls, known as Darbar Hall and Ganesh Hall. This monument is also home to a gallery, known as the Holkar Gallery. This gallery exhibits the portraits, photographs and relevant artifacts of the monarchs of the Holkar dynasty.” Host: “When you visit Indore, you should also come to Rajwada because this is heart of Indore.” Host: “Sir, thank you very much!” Right now I am at the Shakkar Bazaar chowk inside the Sarafa Bazaar. I am here to eat Garadu (type of yam root). First let me show you what a Garadu is. It is available during winters and it is very popular in Indore, Madhya Pradesh. I don’t know if it is available in other parts of India or not. I can tell you about four other vegetables that resemble Garadu. One is potato, of course. Second is Kachalu (colocasia root), which is used to make pickles. Third is Jimikand (elephant yam) & fourth is shakarkandi (sweet potato). I was familiar with these four vegetables and I got introduced to garadu here in Indore. I’ve already placed an order for garadu chat. Here, they are frying garadu chunks in peanut oil. I will tell you about its taste after I eat some. As per my opinion, the closest match to garadu in terms of taste and texture is potato. It is not like kachalu, shakarkandi or jimikand, as far as my knowledge goes. For now, I am confused about whether jimikand and garadu are the same. I am going to find out about it from them after I finish my chat. However, its taste is amazing. It is being fried here in peanut oil, which is said to be very popular in Madhya Pradesh. This garadu chat is tasty. If I am given a bite of potato chat with a bite of garadu chat immediately after, I may not be able to tell the difference today. However, if I am able to eat it several times and then realize its taste, then I may be able to tell. Yes, this is different from a potato, that is for sure, but I won’t be able to tell you how it is different. It grows underground. Shopkeeper: “this is called jimikand/garadu. It grows in only two places in India. One is in Rajasthan and the second is Ratlam city in Madhya Pradesh. It is very tasty.” In my childhood, we used to eat popsicles, also called chuski. Right now, after eating garadu, my eyes fell on this stall, which is selling popsicles made of crushed ice. Obviously I understand what this stall is selling but as I am looking around, I can see a lot of variety in flavors available. I am told that they specialize in a gola (popsicle) made like a Christmas tree. Though he explained it to me in detail but I am still not sure about the process. Moreover, I was speaking to other customers here and I’ve made a few friends among them. All of us will attempt to eat this Christmas popsicle together. Shopkeeper: “this popsicle is called Ice Beach. It is made with milk rabri, tutti fruit and coconut. It is very yummy and four people can easily share it.” These are my new friends in Indore, this one is the youngest one. So you saw how this Christmas tree was made. It was a difficult process. Please pick spoon guys! To create this popsicle, with rabri, and so many flavors in it, is beyond my imagination. What I can realize is that this kind of dish is possible only where there is huge innovation in food already. One thing I’ve noticed is that I am getting a different flavor in each bite. The shop owner has generously offered to add more flavors to this popsicle even as we keep eating. He has added pan flavor with additional flavor of bubblegum. Now, he has added the flavor of litchi fruit. With him adding more yummy flavors, it seems like our taste buds are having a party inside the mouth. Host: “Hey you never told me which class you study in?” Boy: “I am in 7th standard.” Host: “Just look at it, I am now friends with a 7th class student!” Eating the bubblegum flavor in the popsicle feels like I am myself in 7th standard and am chewing gum. The flavors don’t just stop pouring in. I am not sure whether this is green apple flavor or not, but it is yummy as hell! Total taste change! Suddenly it feels like we are eating soda. I forgot which flavors or ingredients he added to the ice. But whatever he added, it tastes too good. When I started, I wasn’t sure how I was going to finish it. But as he kept adding more flavors, the dish just became better and better. But he was right, it is not a job for a single person to finish this amazing popsicle. I enjoyed it but let me ask my new friends too for their opinions. I enjoyed it very much! No. 1! Amazing! Good! I made new friends, and we enjoyed it together too. Good night! Rest, we will meet again tomorrow. Tomorrow is going to be a new day, a new beginning! I’ve come to the Jain Temple near Sarafa Bazaar. It is located at a distance of about 200-250 meters from the bazaar. It is written here that photography not allowed. So, I am going to go inside and then tell you about the temple. I saw the temple from inside. It is very beautiful. I couldn’t show it to you from inside but this temple is also known as “kaanchmandir”, which literally means glass temple. If you ask anyone in Indore the way to KaanchMandir, they will bring you here. I met the manager inside and he told me that this temple is a century old. The glass used in this temple was imported from Belgium. It was constructed by artisans of Iran and Jaipur together. You can see glass embedded everywhere, on the roof, floor and the four walls too. Let me check out some more of this beautiful structure. There are small glass pieces embedded in this figure on the wall. As I wave my hands, I can see my reflection in all the small glass pieces. When you come to Indore, you can come visit this temple. The temple is open between 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. In the beginning, I found it strange to see shikanji made of milk. But now, after spending the past few days in Indore, I’ve got used to the milk shikanji. I am at Nagori Sweets, Sarafa Bazaar and this shop is famous for shikanji. In fact, while I was setting up my camera and microphone to begin shooting, I saw at least 15 people coming in, ordering this shikanji and finishing it then and there. This means, it is very popular. This shikanji is different from the one I had earlier. Now, the exact different, I can tell you after having a few more sips. My guess is that maybe it doesn’t have shrikhand inside. I will find out about it from the owner. Also, it is slightly sweeter than the other shikanji I had. The color of shikanji proves that it has more of saffron as well. It is tasty, no doubt, because it is made from cooked milk, however, it is really sweet. So, if you don’t like too much sweetness in your food, you may not like it as much. I can see this photograph on the wall, it looks like very old. Let me find out from the owner. The owner told me that this photograph is at least 60-65 years old. You can see the father of the present owner, who is a child in the photograph. He is the grandfather of the present owner. This photograph was clicked at the time of Diwali festival. Owner: “It takes at least 6-7 hours to prepare shikanji. We don’t use shrikhand in it. We just cook the milk to extreme thickness and then serve it chilled.” Man: “The Nagorishikanji is sold out by the afternoon. Whenever I visit Indore every fortnight or so, Nagori Sweet, Sarafa bazaar is my first choice for shikanji.” Man: “I’ve been having this shikanji for the past 6-7 years. It is really tasty.” I’ve come to watch the light & sound show at Rajwada. You can see the picture in the background. There is a Hindi language show from 6:45 p.m to 7:45 p.m. & there will be an English language show afterwards. After I watch the show, I will tell you how it was. I’ve just watched the 45 minute long show. The show depicts the history of the Holkar dynasty, especially that of Devi Ahilyabai. She was a brave and devout lady, who single-handedly took over the reins of the Malwa region and worked hard to pave the way for women emancipation in the region. If you come to Indore, you should definitely watch this show. That’s it for now. I’m leaving.